Hiroshima/Fukuoka. Hello Kitty Robot Overlords.

 Japan, Photos, Travel  Comments Off on Hiroshima/Fukuoka. Hello Kitty Robot Overlords.
Nov 012007
 

Last night in Hiroshima I tried to do laundry again. It’s not always easy to find a hotel that has coin-operated washers that work. Even though the 5,000-7,000 yen a night business hotels tend to have them, they aren’t always in the best shape.

I give you the hotel I stayed in last night as an example. The washing machine was fine. It did an admirable job of washing. But the dryers were all way too tiny, and either didn’t dry the clothes or just squealed like a pig being stabbed with a rusty icepick.

I asked the clerk if there was a laundromat (they call them “Coin Laundry” in Japan) nearby, and he showed me where one was.

Now, usually when I stay near the station, it’s a mixed bag. Sometimes it’s shiny and new, and other times it’s a bit on the older side. Hiroshima has a little of both. Some shiny right next to some not-so-shiny.

The laundromat was a tiny little one with some old machines, and an older couple, who were the owners, working on them.

I asked the man which dryer was the best, and he steered me to the one he just finished repairing. Then I wound up chatting with them in half-Japanese, half-English for the next 45 minutes or so. Turns out they were really nice down-to-earth people. It was a lot of fun talking to them.

Leaving Hiroshima for Fukuoka–Err, I Mean Hakata!

I went back to the hotel, got some sleep, and got up at 8 a.m. to catch my 10 a.m. train to Fukuoka/Hakata. If you want to go to Fukuoka, make sure you tell them you want Hakata Station, not Fukuoka Station. (JR Fukuoka is somewhere in Northern Tohoku, like 1,200 Km away or something.) It was about an hour and a quarter to Fukuoka/Hakata, but much of it was in tunnels, so the scenery wasn’t so hot. No photos.

On the way, I planned my trip to Fukuoka for the day. I didn’t have a whole lot of time, so I went by my usual standbys: a museum, a tall thing with a view, and shopping.

First I headed to the info counter at the station for local brochures and maps. Fukuoka doesn’t really have a “You must do this or you will regret it forever” sort of thing, so it’s pretty much up to you. It is a pretty big city, so there’s a lot of fun things to do. On the downside, there really wasn’t a whole lot worth taking pictures of, either.

I stopped by the hotel to drop off my luggage. Some hotels will let you leave your luggage if you show up before check-in. If not, you can dump it in a locker, but going to the hotel can save you some yen on locker rentals. I found another Comfort Inn, and using my AAA card, I cut the rate down to 5,400 yen. 600 yen is another lunch bento box.

Exploring Hakata and Fukuoka

Then I went to explore Hakata. (Which is what they call this portion of town.) I went to the Hakata Folk Museum and looked at some cool exhibits of daily life in the area over the last 150 or so years. I really like looking at old Meiji, Taisho and Showa period stuff. It’s interesting to see the cultural transformation of Japan from an isolated, almost medieval society into an industrial powerhouse, and how that transformation affected the people of Japan.

They also had this really cool telephone exhibit. When you picked up the receiver, you could hear a couple having a conversation in full-blown Hakata-ben, which is the regional variant of Japanese spoken around here. It was so different from the Japanese I’ve been studying, that couldn’t understand a word, but it was fun, anyway.

On the way out of the Folk Museum, I saw the entrance to Kushida Shrine. I’m all shrine-d out at this point, so I took a few photos and headed on. But it looks like a neat place:

Kushida Shrine in Hakata

I decided to check out Canal City, because I saw some interesting pictures of it somewhere online. It was sort of disappointing. It’s just a mall. Yes, it has some interesting architecture, but in the end it’s still a mall. They did have an amazing arcade there, though.

A few Canal City photos:

Canal City

Canal City

Canal City

The old shopping arcade a block away was much more interesting to me.

Shopping Arcade

I found a store that was selling prints of old Edo– that were printed in the USA. So I didn’t buy any.

I decided to begin my search for Robosquare, which I could not find. The map indicated one place, and it wasn’t there. Nothing but more shopping malls. So I wandered for a bit, saw some scenic canals, and ate my first Mos Burger. It was delicious. The burger is definitely good. So were the fries and onion rings. And the iced cocoa. I love iced cocoa. Japan has some interesting beverages.

Here’s the general vicinity of Mos Burger and the non-existent Robosquare (at least not in this location):

Canals in Fukuoka

Downtown area

By then, it was a little after 3, so I decided to go to the hotel and check in. It’s a VERY nice room for 5,400 yen a night. Seriously, not to sound like a shill or anything, but you should check out the Comfort Inns in Japan. They’re dirt cheap, they have nice amenities, and you can book online pretty easily. They only have one hotel in Tokyo, though, so that’s kind of a bust, but otherwise they’re great. They have hotels all over Japan. (And if you have AAA, you get the 10% discount.)

I have CNN-J on the TV, so I get some English language programming to get a rest. I sacked out until 5, then I went out to see some more sights.

Fukuoka at Night

First I went to Tenjin, the big shopping district, in order to catch a bus to the Fukuoka Tower, the 2nd tallest building/tower thing in Japan. The bus stopped nearby, I got out, and presto! I found Robosquare– 5 miles west of where the map said it was.

A nice lady there showed me a number of very cute robots they had on display.

The first one was Paro, a robot baby seal with fur and those sad seal eyes, and it made cute noises when you petted it. Apparently they use it for therapy for kids, the elderly, and people with mental or emotional problems of one sort or another. It helps people relax. It’s very cute and fluffy. I’m sure if they sold it in the U.S., it would clobber Elmo. (And parents’ wallets, too. Those sensors aren’t free, you know.)

Then I got to play with some of the original Sony Aibos. Cute little robodoggies! It was a lot of fun.

Then she showed me a robot whose name escapes me, but it’s designed to assist the elderly with daily tasks. It doesn’t move much. It’s more like someone to talk to who also handles your e-mail and phone duties… sort of like a robo-secretary, I guess. It was cute.

Then came the robot that had the most personality, but which also scared me a little bit. It was Hello Kitty ROBO. It actually said some funny stuff (all in Japanese, of course), but it was just a little bit creepy, and I never could figure out what you would buy it for. It was more of a toy than a tool. Toys are fine, too, but this one looked pricey.

I thanked the people at Robosquare and left to go to the Fukuoka Tower. It was tall. The views were great, the pictures were difficult to get.

A circular polarizer is a necessity for these kinds of places, and you can’t easily attach them to a compact camera.

Some photos of the Fukuoka skyline at night. Don’t expect too much:

Fukuoka at Night

Fukuoka at Night

Fukuoka at Night

Fukuoka at Night

Fukuoka at Night

Fukuoka at Night

I like photographing Ferris wheels at night. I wish I brought a better camera:

Fukuoka at Night

I made a mad dash back to Tenjin before the department stores closed to find dinner. I love Japanese department stores. They all have such wonderful food in their basements, and you can take it home with you.

After picking up dinner, I took a walk around Tenjin. It’s a lot of fun. It reminds me a bit of Tokyo, only less cold. People are nice and lively, and it feels like a lot of stuff is going on all the time. Tenjin is definitely worth the time, especially in the evening. (But a lot of stores close at 8.) I found my favorite chain in Japan so far– Bic Camera. They have 6 floors of nerd toys. I picked up a camera neck strap, and saw the Epson RD1-s, which is a digital camera that takes Leica M Mount lenses, and is only 240,000 yen (~$2200 US).

I must purge all of my lustful thoughts for a camera I cannot afford.

The best thing I found was on the 6th floor. FFTA-2 for the DS! And a thick as all heck game guide! GET!

I went back to Hakata Station, and my hotel. The station gets depressing at night, because the homeless come in droves to sleep in front of it in the square. It’s a whole different place from the day.

The guidebooks all say that it’s easy to find a yatai (food stall) in Fukuoka, and it’s a thing you should do, but I couldn’t find one tonight. I’ll have to do it some other time. I also didn’t find the good Hakata-style Ramen places, either. I saw a few, but they weren’t the ones I was looking for. That’s something else to save for next time.

Fukuoka looks like a good place to live; the people are nice, the food is good, and there’s normal stuff to do. It may not be a tourist haven, but I was only here for a day, so what do I know? I do like the vibe here.

Anyway, I’m going to get some rest tonight, then I’m off to Osaka tomorrow morning. I’m not sure what I’m doing there yet, but I’ll have 3 hours on the train to figure it out.

After Osaka is _____. I need to fill that in tonight. After _____ is probably Sendai, though, then Tokyo.

_____ is probably Nagano, if I can find a room there.

Hiroshima/Miyajima Part One, Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum

 Japan, Photos, Travel  Comments Off on Hiroshima/Miyajima Part One, Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum
Oct 312007
 

I had a big day in Hiroshima and Miyajima today.

I started off with a trip to what they call “The A-Bomb Dome.” (The Genbaku Dome if you want to say it in Japanese.) It’s a famous building that was still standing after the U.S. dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima. Other buildings were left standing, too, but they were all demolished later on. This one was preserved in spite of some protests that the city should move on and clear the site.

It’s a very moving site. It’s one of those things everyone should see. I took photos, so maybe you can get a feel for the place.

As I came to the site, I took this shot of the exterior:

Genbaku Dome

Walking around the outside of the building:

Genbaku Dome

More exterior shots:

Genbaku Dome

Genbaku Dome

Genbaku Dome

Genbaku Dome

Genbaku Dome Closeup

Some photos of the interior of the building:

Genbaku Dome

Genbaku Dome-- Interior

Genbaku Dome-- Interior shot

There are a bunch of shrines and memorials around the Peace Park area. There’s even one for conscripted Korean and Chinese laborers who died in the blast working for the Japanese against their will.

Shrine

Hiroshima Peace Memorial, Shrine, and Museum

Moving across the river towards the Peace Park, two last looks at the Genbaku Dome:

Genbaku Dome from across the river

Genbaku Dome Close-up

I also had a look at the main memorial in front of the Peace Museum.

Approaching the memorial flame:

Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum

Getting closer in:

Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum

Zooming in a bit more:

Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum

Extreme detail:

Memorial Flame closeup

Better shot of the memorial flame:

Hiroshima Peace Memorial

Memorial Shrine from the pond side:

Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum

The Shrine is designed so that as you approach it, you can see the Genbaku Dome:

Hiroshima Peace Memorial and Shrine

Another shot:

Hiroshima Peace Memorial and Shrine

I moved on to the Peace Museum. I find it really hard to put my feelings about this into words. The donated items on display underlined the horror of the bombing. Many of the items were things like “School Uniform of ____-san, who survived the blast but died 2 days later,” or “____-san was never found, but this shredded uniform of his was.” I think the part that hit the hardest were the pictures of the kids who died so horribly.

If you haven’t read it, you should read Hiroshima by John Hershey.

The students from a girls’ junior high school were downtown with some other students helping clear out a demolished area, when they were hit by the blast. It was all very sad, and very horrible.

There were a lot of torn clothes on display– they were torn because they were blown off of the people wearing them. The clothes were found, but the often people never were.

There were also stories about the people who weren’t lucky enough to die right away, but instead received lethal doses of radiation and died soon after. I’ll spare you the details, but they were pretty horrendous.

After I finished visiting the museum, I walked around a bit, and then had lunch, since I had skipped breakfast in anticipation of the museum. (Life does go on.)

I think that every person who can should come to Hiroshima and see this. It’s the sort of thing that changes the way you see the world.

I think this is a good spot to wrap up this post. The Miyajima content will get its own post.

Random Musings from Hiroshima

 Food, Japan, Travel  Comments Off on Random Musings from Hiroshima
Oct 302007
 

I managed to snatch dinner before they could snatch it back out of my hands. Department stores just up and close at the drop of a hat. And they have confusing hours. For example, the food stores in the basement close at 8 p.m. The main stores close at 8 p.m. The book store closes at 9 p.m. The restaurants close at 11 p.m., but stop taking orders at 10 p.m.

Make sure you read the hours before you go in. Great advice I should probably take myself.

I managed to find a soft sandwich and some pastry at 7:59:59 p.m., and then didn’t have time to find anything but water to drink with it.

I came back to the hotel to do laundry… to find out it’s too late to finish it all. A vast faceless conspiracy moves against me! Apparently laundry hours stop at 10 p.m., when they unplug the machines. Fair enough. If my room was next to the laundry, I’d want that service as well.

My dentist e-mailed me back. He said to go buy an emery board and file down the annoying bits until he could fix it properly, but not to file off too much. Ah, the joys of travel.

It is pretty cool that he replied to my e-mail that quickly. Right now I’m 7,000 miles away from his very comfortable dentist’s chair. (Dr. Saib has great chairs, and knows how to take care of a patient!)

I’m going to go to Fukuoka/Hakata next for a day and check things out. I found a cheap Comfort Inn there. 5,400 yen with my AAA discount. I saved 600 yen off of their regular rack rate.

Too bad I can’t use Comfort Inn when I’m in Tokyo. They have a pretty nice chain of hotels with very reasonable rates, and I can use the English website in the US to set everything up. That’s really handy.

From Nara to Hiroshima

 Japan, Photos, Travel  Comments Off on From Nara to Hiroshima
Oct 302007
 

Chipped Teeth on Rye.

I made it to Hiroshima just now. And I somehow managed to chip one of my teeth on a sandwich.

A sandwich.

A soft, chewy, delicious sandwich.

Dammit.

Now I’ve got this rough spot on my teeth that I can’t stop rubbing with my tongue. So now my tongue is sore. The tooth doesn’t hurt at all.

Getting from Nara to Hiroshima

The travel details are probably dull, but I’ll go over them anyway. I left Nara at about 11:30, got to Kyoto at 12:30, chipped my tooth at Isetan in Kyoto at 1:00, hopped on the shinkansen to Okayama at 1:21, changed trains to the RailStar at Okayama at 2:45, and arrived in Hiroshima at 3:36.

The Railstar trains are nice. It’s 2×2 seating, just like the Green Cars on the Tokaido shinkansen. I haven’t ridden in any Green Cars at all. (Green Cars are the first class section of the shinkansen.) I got the regular JR Pass to save $200, and I can reserve seats just fine. Also, the seats are pretty roomy and comfortable in the regular reserved cars.

When I got to Hiroshima, I wandered around the area a bit trying to get to my hotel.

And here’s a travel tip for those of you thinking about going to Japan– if the brochure says it takes X minutes from M Station, then take X and multiply it by the two times the number of bags you’re carrying. I’ve got 3 bags, technically, so it took me 6 minutes to find the hotel 1 minute away from the station. If it’s not near the station, I strongly recommend a cab if you have heavy bags. This place is right by the station, so no cab was needed. But in other places, it’s worth it to spend 1,000-1,500 yen on a cab to save your precious time and sanity.

Big View from a Small Room

I have a wonderful view here– I’m about 10 stories up, right by the river in front of JR Hiroshima Station. But I’m in the tiniest room ever. It does have some nice amenities but it’s tiny as all get-out. Hotel Kawashima, 6,300 yen a night, and the rooms have everything you need, except space. And it smells a little bit like men’s hair care products.

Photos!

This is probably the smallest hotel room yet for me (pardon the mess):

The Hotels Keep Getting Smaller...

But the view is pretty cool. Just don’t fall out of the window!

View from my hotel window

Tomorrow I’ll try to see the Peace Park and visit Miyajima in one day because that’s all the time I have here. I’m going to scope out some places on the Internet and see if I can find a comfy room for Thursday Night that will help me forget my tooth for a while.

Speaking of which, does anyone know how to say Dental Wax in Japanese?

At least my dentist has e-mail. Maybe he’ll get back to me sometime tonight or early tomorrow with some ideas.

I’m a little woozy, too. Probably another migraine, or something like that.

Oh, and chocolate coronets are fun to eat. Something  else I learned at Isetan.

Tonight, I’m just going to relax in my room and get some food at the department store. I’m sure I can find one.

I hope I don’t break any more teeth.

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