Oct 292007
 

For my last night in Kyoto (which was last night), I went back to Isetan’s 11th floor. This time I went back to my chicken and pizza places for a second raid. Good stuff.

Later that night my stomach paid me back in spades. That’s why I bring the Pink Stuff with me on a trip. (In pill form so I don’t have to taste it.)

I don’t think I’m going to be eating any weird sushi anytime soon.

I Ship and Ship, and Nothing Changes!

Today was a travel and sightseeing day. But first, I shipped another 20 lbs. of stuff I don’t need back home.

I keep sending these giant boxes home, yet my suitcase doesn’t get smaller. I don’t understand it at all. I’ve sent 40 pounds of junk home. 3.5 cubic feet. Where did I carry it all?!? It’s a mystery that bugs me, and it also frightens me a little.

Getting to the post office was fun. The hotel let me borrow a bicycle for 30 minutes for free, and I put the giant box in the basket. I had to hold on to the box while I tried to steer.

Good times.

Checking Out

I checked out and went to the tourism office in Kyoto Station to reserve a hotel in Osaka on the nights of the 2nd and the 3rd of November. I found a nice and cheap hotel, which makes me all warm and fuzzy. Thank you, Welcome Inn Reservation Center! The only downside is that the only Internet is in a “Business Room” I have to go to to use. I don’t know how much I’m going to use that, so I’ll probably be incommunicado.

I think I’m going to go to Beppu after all. I know, I’m cutting it way too close, but I think I should be able to swing a room somewhere.

Off to Nara

It took about 45 minutes by train to get to Nara from Kyoto. I met some nice Americans on the train. They were a couple who live in Kyoto traveling with their twins, and the husband’s parents. They were nice people, and the screaming toddlers kept me from sleeping and missing my stop.

Right now JR Nara Station is pretty basic. There are no escalators, and no elevators. I think they’re in the middle of renovations or something.

Either way, it was a pain to lug the big case up those stairs. Down is easy… that’s just a controlled crash down the stairs. Since I got there 2 hours before I could check in, it was time to scope out some coin lockers. (コインロッカー in Japanese, by the way. Just say “Coin Rocka,” and you’re close enough.)

I lucked out as a couple of Australian guys were unloading their big locker, and snagged it. One of them even gave me 100 yen because all I had was 300 yen and a 500 yen coin, and I needed 5x 100 yen coins.

But I was still 100 yen short.

Let me go back to Japanese money for a second. Should you choose to go to Japan, hold on to as many 100 yen coins as you can. They are THE most useful coins. Everything else will betray you at one point. Take my 500 yen coin. Even though the locker costs 500 yen, it doesn’t accept 500 yen coins. Nor will it accept anything other than 100 yen coins. And getting change can be troublesome. Some places won’t give you change for even small things like a 500 yen coin. Very annoying. So hoard those 100 yen coins.

After a few tries, I finally found someone who would give me change, so I got a locker. Then I realized my other bag wouldn’t fit, so I decided to try the electronic lockers, but I couldn’t get the machine to read my plastic. I went back to the other lockers for an old-fashioned one that took coins.

Why all the talk about lockers? Because if you travel a lot in Japan, you’ll probably need them at some point. They’re very, very handy.

My luggage secured, I went in search of the main thing I came to Nara for: some NICE calligraphy brushes. Nara is a traditional home for good calligraphy brushes in Japan. I found 2 nice medium-sized horsehair brushes for about 6,300 yen total, and a nice big one for 5,000 yen. I’m set for a while now.

I strolled some more, then when it was time to check in, I went to my hotel, the Nara Royal Hotel. This is a very nice place, with a low price for the luxury you get. 8,500-9,500 yen a night for a single, and it’s big for a Japanese single hotel room. There’s even an onsen/spa in the basement, which I’m going to try out very soon.

It also has HDTV in the room. It’s not a crummy one either; it’s a Sharp Aquos.

Then it was off to see some sights.

Sightseeing in Nara

Someone decided centuries ago that the deer here were a sign of good fortune, and they became sacred. Sacred animals lead a charmed life, and can merrily poop and act out wherever they want to. This is a Bad Thing, in my opinion. It’s bad because the animals become pampered and spoiled, and act really obnoxious.

And did I mention the poop? It’s everywhere. I had to dodge it constantly, so instead of looking at the sights, I was watching my feet.

Watch Your Step

From now on, whenever I think of Nara, I will always think of deer poop, and the smell of lots and lots of deer poop. It’s kind of hard not to.

Anyway.

I took a train to Kintetsu Nara Station, and started taking pictures and walking towards Kasuga Taisha Shrine.

The platform:

Nara

A fountain with a statue of a Buddhist priest whose name escapes me:

Fountain/Statue

A shopping arcade along the way:

Shopping Arcade

Deer warning signs, two varieties:
This one warns of deer jumping into the street:
Deer Warning Sign

This is just telling you not to mess with them. Period.

Another Deer Warning Sign

And finally, some deer!

Chillin’

Sacred Deer

Fightin’

Fighting Deer

A shrine entrance that looked interesting, but I had to skip it for time reasons. Himuro Jinja:

Shrine Entrance

And a really pretty lantern with some fall colors:

Lantern

Kasuga Taisha Shrine

I made it to the Kasuga Taisha Shrine, another World Heritage Site, just in time. It closes at 4:30 p.m., so I had to hustle to get there. I made it in time to see most of it. It was gorgeous.

Pictures!

The entrance:

Kasuga Taisha Shrine Entrance

Rows of lanterns:

Kasuga Taisha Shrine

A deer-shaped washing area:

Deer Statue Purifying Area

The entrance to the Honsha, where you go pray:

Honsha Entrance

Lantern Detail:

Honsha Entrance Detail

A tiny bridge nearby:

Bridge Near the Honsha Entrance

Another lantern-lined path:

Kasuga Taisha Shrine, Nara

This path takes you to Wakamiya Shrine. I didn’t follow it:

Kasuga Taisha Shrine, Nara

Heading out:

Kasuga Taisha Shrine, Nara

Moss!

Moss

A Komainu, one of the stone shrine guardians:

Shrine Guardian-- Komainu

Heading to Todaiji temple:

Leaving the shrine

Todaiji Temple, or The Reason Why I Travel

I walked to Todaiji Temple, home of the Daibutsuden Hall, where there is an enormous wooden statue of Buddha. This place was awe-inspiring. This is the reason I travel, and put up with things like insanely-heavy luggage, deer poop, and weird food making me sick. It’s hard to put into words. It’s just… wow. This is a definite must-see. I lingered there until they kicked me out at 5 p.m. sharp. I was the last one out of the temple as they closed the doors.

And now, pictures!

Approaching Todaiji, there’s another row of shops. Busy doing business. You can already see the outer gate (the Dainanmon). It’s massive.

Souvenir Shops in front of Todaiji Temple

Getting closer (lots of deer around here):

Todaiji Temple Entry Gate (Dainanmon, Or Great South Gate)

The Dainanmon up close and personal:

Todaiji Temple Entry Gate (Dainanmon, Or Great South Gate)

Inside the Dainanmon, there are two giant wooden statues. Here’s one of them:

Statue inside the Dainanmon

Past the Dainanmon is an area around the central gate, or Chuumon. You can see the Daibutsuden behind it. It’s the bigger building.

Todaiji Temple Grounds

And here’s the Chuumon. Can’t go through it. Have to pay admission.

Chuumon (Central Gate)

And here’s the Daibutsuden, where the giant wooden statue of Buddha is located:

Todaiji Temple Daibutsuden

Sexier angle:

Todaiji Temple Daibutsuden

Roof detail:

Todaiji Temple Daibutsuden Detail

Almost there:

Todaiji Temple Daibutsuden

Incense burner outside:

Todaiji Temple Incense Burner

The Daibutsu. This photo just doesn’t do it justice.

Daibutsu

Neither does this one. But it was the best I could do. The light was wretched, and I’m using a point-and-shoot camera.

Daibutsu

Change the angle? Not really helping. Losing the light in a dark place. Go and see it yourself! It’s massive and incredible!

Daibutsu

Time to go. They’re shutting the gates behind me. No, really, they’re shutting the gates!

Todaiji Temple Grounds

Last shot:

Todaiji Temple Grounds

Lots of good pictures again. I’m up to well over 1,700 total.

Then it was back to the hotel for dinner. I’m not sure what I’m going to do next. Maybe I’ll hit the spa.

One not-so-good part–there’s zero cell reception in the hotel for either network. Not much I can do about that. I’d say of the hotels I’ve stayed in so far in Japan, this is the nicest one so far, although the Comfort Inn and the other business hotels all had coin laundries, this one doesn’t, and I need to do some washing again. Temps are still in the mid-70s, and I’m sweating like a pig. (In case you needed to know that.)

Last photo, because I love this cup:

Washed Up

Be relieved, and use it!

Tomorrow is a big travel day to Hiroshima. I’ll be there two nights, then if I’m lucky, I’ll go to Beppu. (Fingers crossed on that reservation…)

It’s Made of Gooold!

 Japan, Photos, Travel  Comments Off on It’s Made of Gooold!
Oct 202007
 

I just got back to Okazaki from Kyoto, and today was great.

Sun! Beautiful sun!

I dumped my luggage in a locker at the station, and talked to the very helpful ladies on the 9th floor of Kyoto Station in the tourist office: by all means, go there.

Try to get to Kyoto well before 6 p.m. and use that office. They’ll tell you how to get around, they’ll give you maps and all kinds of useful information. They’ll even hook you up with a cheap hotel, if you need one. It would have saved me so much headache if I had gone there first on Thursday night, but it was closed.

The best thing they taught me was how to ride the buses in Kyoto. Generally, it’s cheaper to get an all-day ticket if you’re going to ride more than one bus. The fare covers the route, not the distance traveled, so the fares are all the same.

Kinkakuji

I took a crowded bus to Kinkakuji, which was incredible (it’s also called the Golden Pavilion, if you’re scoring at home), then I walked to Ryoanji to see the impressive Zen rock gardens there.

Kinkakuji is a gorgeous temple. First, the golden pavilion itself is stunning:

Oh yeah, this is why I came here...

Golden Pavilion

Asking people to take your picture is kind of risky. Not that they’ll steal your camera, but that they won’t be able to figure out how to get you in focus:

Golden Pavilion obscured by a Dork

Not that I was looking all that dapper, anyway.

The crowd waiting to take pictures:

Golden Pavilion

This one came out really nice:

Golden Pavilion-- This one came out nice.

Here’s where I would put the rocking chairs and wave back at the crowds:

Golden Pavilion

And here’s a shot of the back:

Golden Pavilion

I figured out what everyone does with their 1 and 5 yen coins. They throw them here:

Where 1 and 5 yen coins go...

And here is where you pray:

Altar

Altar closer up

At Kinkakuji, I bought some souvenirs, then spied a Haagen-Dazs vending machine, and purchased an almond-vanilla bar.

Another World Heritage?
Refreshing.

I finally sucked up my courage and got an omikuji (it’s a fortune they sell at shrines.)– I drew a shoukichi— which means I’ll have a little luck. That’s fine for me. Friday I would have pulled a daikyou— big bad luck. No thanks.

The Road to Ryoan-ji

Ryoan-ji is pretty close to Kinkakuji. It’s about a 15 minute walk away, and definitely worth it.

I started by going down this road:

On the way to Ryoanji

I saw these flowers by a utility pole. I guess they do roadside memorials in Japan as well.

Flowers by the road

I passed a place that had a lot of those stone (or maybe concrete?) statues that I’ve seen a lot:

So that's where they come from...

Lots of moss on the walls. It was really pretty:

Rock wall

I thought this garage door was cool.

Your Hobby Adviser Should Be a Freak 2

Ryoan-ji

Ryoan-ji is gorgeous in a different way from Kinkakuji. It’s a wonderful contrast between the two temples. Kinkakuji is hectic and crowded, while Ryoan-ji feels more tranquil.

Ryoanji Grounds

Ryoanji Grounds

There’s a large pond, or a small lake on the temple grounds, and it’s very nice to look at.

Ryoanji Grounds

There’s a small island on the lake, and a small shrine on the island:

Ryoanji Grounds

Ryoanji Grounds

Ryoanji Grounds

Here is the place where you wash your hands and mouth to purify yourself:

Ryoanji Grounds

As you enter the main building where the rock garden is, you have to take off your shoes. Then as you enter, there are two really stunning pieces of calligraphy:

Calligraphy

Calligraphy

And then you come to the famous Zen rock garden:

Wide shot:

Zen Rock Garden

Some closeups:

Zen Rock Garden

Zen Rock Garden

Of course it’s crowded. It’s pretty famous:

Zen Rock Garden Crowds

I went around the back of the main building, looked at some of the other scenery. I really liked this water feature:

Ryoanji Grounds

Here’s a shot of the rooms around the rock garden. There were a lot of really pretty screens on the walls:

Ryoanji Grounds

On the way out, you walk around a lot of the grounds again, about a 15 minute walk. I thought this Japanese maple tree was especially pretty:

Ryoanji Grounds

Persimmons and ducks on the way out:

Ryoanji Grounds

Back to the Station (More Kyoto Station Photos!)

Back at Kyoto Station, I took some more photos. The Kyoto Tower, reflected on the side of the station:

Kyoto Tower Reflection

One of the main facades of the station:

Kyoto Station

 

Inside the station, things are hectic on a Sunday!

 

Kyoto Station

 

Going up to the roof.

Looking Down on the Station from the Roof

 

Roof detail. I love detail shots.

Kyoto Station Roof Detail

 

Here’s a panorama I took of the roof area.

kyoto station pano

 

Look! Another band! I’m a old band nerd, so I’m always happy to see kids learning to perform music:

Kyoto Station

While I was at the station, I made some hotel reservations with the help of the Welcome Inn people at the tourist office on the 9th floor. I got a room for 6,300 yen a night for the 26th, 27th, and 28th. That’s a weekend in October. Amazing. I couldn’t find anything available on my own.

October is leaf-viewing season, so it gets booked up here pretty fast.

Next weekend, I’m going back to visit all the places I couldn’t get to, like Gion, Arashiyama, Eiga Mura (it’s the cinema village they use to shoot samurai dramas… I want to see it if time permits), plus I want to look at some handicraft stuff.

After that I’ll go to Nara, Hiroshima, Beppu, Osaka,  and then we’ll see.

I’m up to over 1,050 photos so far.

And I have learned a ton about traveling.

Rick Steves was right. You are always carrying too much crap.

You can always find one thing to get rid of.

Two bags is one bag too many. Three bags is insanity.

Digital anything is great.

Now I’m going to take a shower, go to ZigZag, then do some laundry.

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